Utila is a small island off the coast of Honduras in the Caribbean. It forms part of the Bay Islands and is one of the world’s cheapest and most famous diving destinations.
I must say that it took me a while to warm up to Utila. When I arrived I was a bit surprised about how americanized it looked and I didn’t feel like I was in Latin America. I had imagined Utila as a remote Caribbean island with beautiful beaches. The reality was lots of noisy traffic, garbage in the streets and old American architecture.
At first, I didn’t like it and I didn’t understand the hype around this island. It took me a day or two to get comfortable in Utila and then, I fell in love with it more and more each day. The island is a paradise for divers and there’s a community of backpackers and expats. Despite being a tourist hotspot, the majority of the island is just nature.
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How to get to Utila, Honduras
Utila has an airport that receives national flights from major cities in Honduras, and also a ferry port. Most people arrive to the island by ferry, either from La Ceiba or from the bigger neighboring island Roatan.
From San Pedro Sula to Utila
There are two ways to get from San Pedro Sula to Utila. You can either fly there, or you take a bus to La Ceiba and then a ferry to Utila. It’s quicker to take a plane, but it’s usually more expensive. This is how you get from San Pedro Sula to Utila by public transport:
San Pedro Sula – La Ceiba (Bus) – 150 HNL / 5.50 EUR
La Ceiba – Ferry Terminal (Taxi) – 150 HNL / 5.50 EUR
Ferry to Utila – 700 HNL / 22 EUR
The bus company Cristina Transport has several daily departures from the bus terminal in San Pedro Sula to La Ceiba. It takes about 4 hours to get to La Ceiba and you will make a 20 minute stop in Tela where you can get lunch. Once you arrive to La Ceiba, you need to catch a taxi to the ferry terminal.
BUDGET TIP: Try to find others to share the taxi with so you can split the cost. You will probably not be the only person on the bus who needs to go to the ferry terminal.
There are two ferries each day, one that departs at 8 am and another one that departs at 4:30 pm. When taking the bus from San Pedro Sula in the morning, make sure to calculate enough time to make it to the ferry. The ferry from La Ceiba to Utila takes about 45 minutes.
It’s cheaper to buy the ferry ticket from La Ceiba to Utila online on their website.
From Roatan to Utila
There’s one daily ferry from Roatan to Utila at 2 pm. It takes about an hour and costs 700 HNL (22 EUR).
Diving in Utila, Honduras
Utila is one of the world’s most famous diving destinations. The island is surrounded by the world’s second biggest coral reef after the Great Barrier Reef and is also known to be one of the cheapest places for diving.
Dive sites in Utila, Honduras
Utila is surrounded by more than 80 dive sites, divided in the North Shore and the South Shore. Both sides of the island are amazing for diving, but the North Shore is slightly more impressive. The boats can only go to the North Shore when the weather conditions are good and usually, they only go there in the morning.
If you want an overview of the main dive sites of Utila, click here.
Best time to dive in Utila, Honduras
The best time for diving in Utila is between March and May. This is dry season in Utila and during this time of the year you might have a bigger selection of dive sites to choose from because of the good weather.
I also recommend going diving in the morning rather than in the afternoon, because the morning boats usually go to the more beautiful North Shore as long as the weather allows it.
Dive resorts in Utila, Honduras
There are many dive resorts in Utila, with Underwater Vision and Utila Dive Center being the most famous ones.
When I arrived to Utila, I did some research and I found the best offer to be Alton’s Dive Center. They offer two dives for 75 USD including all equipment (which is in great condition) and free accommodation in a dorm for each day you dive with them. On the days you don’t dive, they charge 6 USD per night for the dorm. If you want to stay in a private room, you need to pay a little extra.
Doing your Open Water Certification with Alton’s Dive Center costs 295 USD and it includes two Fun Dives after you’re certified. I highly recommend Alton’s Dive Center. It was so much fun to go diving with them. They are very professional and the guides and instructors are knowledgeable and kind.
Other things to do in Utila, Honduras
Diving is certainly the main reason why most travelers visit Utila. But, in case you’re not going to dive, the small island offers a few great other things to do.
Hike to Pumpkin Hill Viewpoint
Pumpkin Hill Viewpoint has an elevation of 72 m and is the highest point of Utila. From up there, you have an amazing panoramic view over the island and the ocean.
To get to Pumpkin Hill Viewpoint you either need to walk for a bit more than an hour from the main street, or you take a tuk tuk. I was lazy that day and I decided to take a tuk tuk. My driver brought me as far he could on the bumpy dirt roads and dropped me off at a point where it was only a 10 minute walk to get to the top.
A tuk tuk ride to Pumpkin Hill costs 100 HNL (3.60 EUR). You’d think that if you’re two persons you could split the cost, but the tuk tuk prices are per person – which doesn’t make sense at all in my opinion.
On the way down from Pumpkin Hill Viewpoint I went straight to Pumpkin Hill Beach, which is easily reachable by walk.
Visit Pumpkin Hill Beach
Pumpkin Hill Beach is a secluded beach with calm waters and surrounded by nature. This place is for those who love solitude and tranquility. Pumpkin Hill Beach is located near the viewpoint I mentioned above, so you can easily visit both on the same day.
If you took a tuk tuk to get there, tell your driver to pick you up again at a certain time because there are usually no tuk tuks passing by.
Do a day trip to Water Cay
Water Cay is a small uninhabited island in the Caribbean near Utila. It takes about 20 minutes to get there by speed boat. It looks like one of those places where they shoot TV shows like Love Island. Crystal clear turquoise water, palm trees and absolute tranquility – this island is a perfect escape for a day.
There are several agencies that offer trips to Water Cay, but I found them quite expensive (40 EUR) and they required a group of 6 people to go. In the end, the dive center where I was staying offered a day trip to Water Cay for 400 HNL (15 EUR). I recommend asking in your dive center about going to Water Cay, they might offer the trip for a good price.
If you go to Water Cay, make sure to bring drinks, food and sun screen. There’s literally nothing on the island besides nature and a public bathroom.
Visit the Utila Chocolate Company
Utila Chocolate Company is a small chocolate factory that produces bean-to-bar organic chocolates. The place is located outside the main area, about a 25 minute walk from the ferry terminal or a 10 minute tuk-tuk ride.
When you go there, they will explain you the process of making chocolate and you will get to taste all of their chocolates, provided that you will buy something in their shop or café after – but believe me, you will want to buy something anyways.
They have a small café where they serve homemade ice cream, cakes and drinks. You can also buy chocolate bars, coffee beans and cocoa beans.
I tried their brownie ice cream and piña colada ice cream and it was delicious! Also their chocolate brownie looked to die for. If you’re a chocolate lover, definitely check out the Utila Chocolate Company.
Take a tuk tuk ride
Tuk tuks are the way to get around in many towns of Central America. While I sometimes got annoyed by their noise and I almost got hit a couple of times, I still enjoy the tuk tuk rides. It’s usually a ride on bumpy roads or narrow alleys and even after many times, it still feels like kind of an adventure to take a tuk tuk.
When walking in the streets you need to have the same caution with tuk tuks as with cyclists in Amsterdam.
Eat baleadas
Baleada is the most typical dish from Honduras consisting of a big wheat tortilla filled with beans and cheese. You can add more ingredients such as eggs, avocado, and/or chorizo.
They’re tasty and cheap and I used to eat them for breakfast, lunch and dinner. A simple baleada with only beans and cheese is usually as cheap as 15 HNL (0.5 EUR) and it gets more expensive depending on how many extra ingredients you want to add. My favorite place to eat baleadas was Mama Rosa #2.
Where to stay in Utila, Honduras
If you plan on going diving, you will probably have accommodation included in your diving package. Most dive centers either have a special deal with a hotel, and others offer accommodation on site.
Alton’s Dive Center, for example, offers free accommodation in a dorm for each day you go diving with them. For the days without diving they charge 6 USD.
Alternative places to stay are Trudy’s if you’re on a budget, and Mango Inn if you want something nicer, but also pricier.
Best restaurants in Utila, Honduras
Utila offers a great mix of local restaurants with traditional dishes from Honduras, and a few places with international cuisine.
Mama Rosa & Mama Rosa #2
Mama Rosa is a budget-friendly place to get delicious local food. I got at least one baleada there each day.
You can even add fish, chicken or lobster to your baleada. My personal favorite version of a baleada is with eggs and avocado.
ReThink
ReThink was my favorite place to get coffee and brunch. This is your place to go if you’re tired of baleadas or you crave some healthy food, such as salad bowls or smoothie bowls.
They also have good wifi and a lovely atmosphere. ReThink is a great place to work from.
La Casita
La Casita offers a mix of local foods, Mexican dishes and European dishes. They have a vast selection of vegetarian options and tasty smoothies.
RJ's Barbecue
RJ’s Barbecue is a great place to get local fish and grilled meat. Their portions are pretty big with lots of sides and very tasty. You need to try their cakes! They do triple chocolate cake, coconut cake and carrot cake and all three of them taste like heaven.
Best time to visit Utila, Honduras
In terms of weather, the best time to visit Utila is between March and September. If you want to avoid the crowds, go there between March and May.
January and February are rainy season on the Bay Islands. I was in Utila for one week in January and there were heavy rains on two days. Luckily, I had enough time to extend my stay but if you’re on a tight schedule, the weather could ruin your time on Utila if you go there during rainy season.
Safety in Utila, Honduras
Utila seemed to be a very safe place and I felt comfortable walking on the street at night. During the day, I also walked around to explore more local areas, but I wouldn’t do that at night. If you go out in the dark, stick to the main tourist street and everything should be fine.
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March 5, 2022 at 9:18 am
Thank you for giving so many tips and honest reviews if costs for us budget travelers. The food alone makes me want to go! It looks so hearty. Checking out Alton’s Dive center now!
March 6, 2022 at 9:22 pm
Oh yeah the food was great! I already miss Baleadas. You’re gonna love the people and the vibe at Alton’s!
March 5, 2022 at 9:41 am
Beautiful place, pictures look lovely, so much culture.
March 6, 2022 at 9:21 pm
It’s a lovely place 🙂
March 5, 2022 at 10:59 am
Even I felt that this island was overhyped until I read this post. Honestly, it sounds exotic to me.
March 6, 2022 at 9:16 pm
It’s a lovely experience if you’re staying at a dive center and are in a community of divers, but other than that, there’s no reason to hype this island.
March 5, 2022 at 1:38 pm
Excellent tips! Thanks for keeping in mind folks who are on a budget!
(The reason why Utila and the other Bay Islands look do “Americanized” is that for hundreds of years, they were a British colony and had large migrations from the British-occupied Caribbean islands. In fact, traditionally, the Bay Islands are English and Garífuna-speaking area — as is much of Honduras’ Caribbean coast, for the same reason.)
March 6, 2022 at 9:14 pm
Thanks for the explanation! Before arriving there I had no idea about this
March 7, 2022 at 12:12 am
The Baleada in Honduras looks delicious!
March 7, 2022 at 10:20 pm
They’re so yummy!!